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Working with Velour In response to Velour has a natural tooth — like velcro, it grips or entwines the bits of pastel powder. However, this powder does have a habit of dusting mats (but no more so, perhaps, than pastel on any other surface). Before starting to paint, I affix the velour paper to a sturdier backing board — usually Fomecor — using an acid-free spray fixative. Then I roll out any unevenness with a brayer or rolling pin, starting from the center and working outward. I tape the edges of the velour to the backing board with acid-free conservation tape and let this sit for a few hours or overnight. Most of my painting is done with NuPastels and pastel pencils on edge. I leave softer pastels for the very end to give the painting a little more oomph. Near the completion of the painting, I tap the painting on the back very lightly to help get rid it of any loose particles. I then touch up the painting if needed. Matting: I cut a double mat for the painting. Then I attach acid-free 1/8" Fomecor spacers (edges blackened with felt marker) on the back of the mat, set back roughly 3/8" to 1/4" from the edge of the inner colored mat. This 1/8" spacer is the biggest factor in keeping the mats clean. But this isn't foolproof, since accidents can still happen. The painting goes next to this. All elements of the framing are layered one beneath the other. I put everything together at a slight tilt from vertical — such that the frame, glass, mats with spacer, and then painting attached to backing are, respectively, below each other. Before the flexi-points stage, I hold everything together and flip it to see if the glass is still clean of specks on the inside. If clean, I put the flexi-points in. If not, then I take everything out and clean the glass. Then I repeat the process. If there are flexi-points in the frame, I simply bend them back onto the backing board. If I there are no flexi-points in the frame yet, I very carefully, I gently lower the assembly face down on a towel on my work table. I insert the flexi-points and hanging D-rings into the frame, all the while trying to hold the frame as still as possible. The wire is next. |